La Providence VDF Blanc 2022, 750ml

La Providence is northern Provence and Its first, tiny vintage was 2021. This young domaine is focused entirely on local varieties, planted on sandy, stony limestone soils with little clay. The farming is certified-organic--hard won after a years-long conversion from the conventional farming of the previous owners--and includes gentle working of the soils and the use of cover crops. They harvest into small bins manually.

The Ugni Blanc is vinified separately: destemmed with berries kept whole for a spontaneous fermentation, 8-day maceration, malolactic fermentation and aging in oak vat. The other varieties remain in whole clusters for direct pressing, fermentation, malo and aging in concrete egg and used barrique. After 5 months of aging on their lees, the wines are blended and the final version bottled without filtration and with a very small, and the wine's first, dose of sulfur. Though La Providence lies within the Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence AOC, the family has opted for Vin de France classification. 500-case production.

Especially compared to other whites from the south, it's still fresh and elegant with notes of apple, a little bit of citrus (but not sharp). It's the acidity that makes the difference here, keeps it clean with minerality and avoids the heft of the Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier based whites of the general area. - Bowler