1969 JB Becker Walkenberg Spätburgunder Rotweiss Auslese "Cabinet", Half Bottle

The 1969 is old skool German-wine labeling at its finest: Before the 1971 wine law the term "Cabinet," spelled with a "c" and only one "t," referred not to the ripeness level (the ripeness here is Auslese-level) but to the wine's quality as a "reserve" or "premium wine," to be stored, as the term suggests, in a special part of the cellar - the cabinet with the top-top wines. This is, in other words, an "Auslese Reserve." Word to the potential buyer: This is mature wine, less a polished and obvious dessert wine and a more cerebral expression of Pinot Noir. At this point the wine tastes nearly dry, showing subterranean, roasted beet juice, caramelized mushrooms, umami and caramel notes across a complex palate. Most bottles still have a nice freshness at the core. For 1969, a good but not exceptional vintage, the 24-year-old Hans-Josef was working with his father together.